Located in the distinctive Disney Concert Hall, Patina is one of the fine dining establishments of Chef Joachim Splichal's sprawling Patina Restaurant Group. I have always considered it the crown jewel of the empire since it shares the same name. I thought Patina as one of the finest establishments in LA would be a fitting place to celebrate my friends birthday.

Surprisingly the drive up to Los Angeles was not bad for a Friday night. We did get a bit lost when we got on the 110 instead of the 101... damn you Google Maps. We still made it in time for our 9:00PM reservations so I suppose no harm done.

Walking up to the restaurant it almost seems out of place, childishly mundane when compared to the architecture of the Disney Concert Hall that serves as home to Patina. By no means does mundane mean uncomfortable the booths looked quite sumptuous and the tables were comfortable if a bit small. I suppose the blue lighting in front of the restaurant serves as a nod to the exotic.


As has become our MO of late, we started the meal with cocktails and enjoyed the meal with wine parings. I ordered a Metropolitan basically a Cosmopolitan (yes a bit gay) with pomegranite in place of cranberry. My friend ordered a mojito but they were out of mint so he decided on a Cuba Libre, a fancy name for rum and coke with lime. As an aside, the water here was intensely lemony my first sip I actually thought there was something wrong with it. "That is LA water" was the refrain that ran around the table.


For our dinners my friends and I tend to aim for as many courses as possible to experience the full breadth of a chef's cooking. Sad to say a mere 6 courses like the Chef's Menu at Patina seems somewhat unimpressive. Fortunately they had two tasting menus a Chef's Menu and an Ocean Menu. Add a chef's special of Mushroom Risotto and that brings the tasting to a much heftier 13 courses.

Bread - Potato Leek, Ciabatta, Walnut, and Sesame
I enjoyed the potato leek the most followed by the ciabatta, then sesame and lastly walnut.


Amuse: Tuna Tartare - Soy, Pickled Onion Tempura, and Balsamic Vinegar.
I was genuinely surprised how much I enjoyed this dish. The tuna was fresh and flavorful paired with trusty soy. The surprise was the impact of the crunchy sweet and sour onion tempura. All in all quite an impressive amuse.


Chef's Menu: Foie Gras and Summer Truffle Terrine - Mission Figs, Aged Balsamic Vinegar, Black pepper Brioche
Unknown wine from Coteaux du Layon, Loire Valley, France
A fairly mild terrine, cleverly spaced with sliced summer truffles paired with traditional fixings. The wine was a chenin blanc that tasted similar to a Sauternes, not quite as sweet but stands up well to the milder Foie Gras.


Ocean Menu: Quartet of the Sea
Sauvignon Blanc, Daniel Schuster, Marlborough, New Zealand
A very enjoyable course composed of Uni and Hamachi, Salmon Tartare, Lobster Salad and a Crabcake. The Uni and Hamachi was my favorite with very fresh uni lending itself very well to the pairing. Now I know crudo is Italian so I can expect the hamachi but I always figured Uni for a strictly Japanese thing, nice to see the culinary world is flattening too. The Salmon tartare topped with some sort of sardine was my second favorite with the salmon texture more resistant almost like a halibut or flounder rather than salmon. The lobster part of the lobster salad was faultless but there was far too much cucumber which overpowered the lobster. Lastly the crabcake that looks like a tater tot and tastes like one too, way too much breading and ineffectual mustard. I was particularly disappointed since my favorite crabcakes are done similarly, crab chunks in a mustard beurre blanc.


Chef's Menu: Roasted Santa Barbara Prawns - Toasted Pistachio Nuts and Emulsion
Chenin Blanc, Millton, "Te Arai Vineyard", Gisborne, New Zealand
The prawns looked so promising. Indeed they were quite good, just a bit shy on the meat. The nuts and emulsion added a nice flavor but totally overpowered the sweetness of the prawns when eaten together. The wine was quite dry with notes of fruit combined with slate.


Ocean Menu: Butter Poached Maine Lobster - Creamy Risotto Topped with Shaved Summer Truffles
Gewurztraminer, Domaine Bott-Geyl, Furstentum, Alsace Grand Cru, France
I was taught to appreciate risotto by my girlfriend who gets it at every instance. This was a particularly fine example of risotto. There seemed to be equal parts lobster and risotto both of which were prepared brilliantly. After the dish was brought out a gloved waiter proceeded to cover the entire surface with a generous helping of shaved truffles. The truffles are of the milder summer variety and lacked the overwhelming pungency of their winter counterparts but still had a very nice flavor and I feel are a wonderful introduction to the appreciation of truffles.


Chef's Menu: Pacific Black Bass "Sous Vide" - Red Beet and Candy Ginger Puree

When I see the words sous vide my expectations go up. I know it shouldn't but I cant help it the two other restaurants known for sous vide cooking I have been to are Charlie Trotters and French Laundry two of my top 5. The bass was quite good with a medium firmness. I enjoyed the sticky-sweet candied ginger pieces but found the red beet puree was a bit too salty for my tastes.


Ocean Menu: Black Olive Dusted Snapper - Zucchini and Mint Puree, Vegetable Confetti

Never a fan of olives I didn't really enjoy them here. I can't really remember this dish paired against the intense flavor of the bass, but I do remember find the fish texture to my liking which is somewhat rare with cooked snapper.


Chef's Menu: Olive Oil Poached Squab Breast - Wild Mushroom Ragout with Pomme Mousseline
Pinot Noir, Daniel Schuster, New Zealand
Ah yes squab, ever since I was a child I have loved roast squab. It was always a rare treat when we went to an especially nice family dinner. That love is with me now and I have developed the same ardor for squab at fine dining restaurants. Very flavorful although maybe a touch tough. The wine was my hands down favorite of the night, young fruits, and smoke it went down perfectly smooth.


Ocean Menu: Truite de Mer "A la Plancha" - Merlot Syrup, Artichoke Heart Confit, Toasted Almonds
St.-Chinian, Domaine Borie La Vitarèle, Languedoc, France
It looks like salmon, even now looking at the picture I have to remind myself Truite de Mer is literally Sea Trout. Very similar in texture and appearance to a salmon, I know I have been confused by it before. I really disliked the artichoke heart confit, bland with a texture like boiled squash, a truly unpleasant feeling.


Chef's Signature: Mushroom Risotto - Topped with Shaved Summer Truffles
Amontillado, Bodega Dios Baco, Jerez, Spain
The risottos of this meal reminded me very much of a wonderful dinner I had with my girlfriend, where we had both lobster risotto and truffle risotto. While this truffle risotto doesnt hold a candle to the winter white truffle risotto at Studio it was still very good and I resolved to take my girlfriend to Patina ASAP so she can taste for herself. In the debate between shellfish risotto or mushroom I am split at Studio I preferred the lobster here it is the mushroom. I will definitely be needing more comparisons.


Chef's Menu: Duo of Milk Fed Veal - Tomato Vaduvan Curry, Oven Roasted Tomatoes and Pearl Onions
Pinot Noir, Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, 2005
There were two types of veal braised cheek, and slow roasted loin. Slow braised meat is always one of my favorites since the low temperature and long cooking times mean the meat softens and becomes super tender as the tendons soften while the muscle fibers retain their texture and the fat slowly melts and fills the crevases left by the tendons loosening. The slow roasted loin was far too dry for my tastes but looking at it I expected as much.


Roasted Halibut Filet - Summer Corn Fondue with Saffron, Homenade Bacon, Wild Mushrooms Fricasse, Corn Bread Dust
Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc, Saint Elena, Venezia, Italy
I liked the sweet salty bacon and the richness of the wild mushrooms the halibut itself wasn't anything special either way.


Fromage
Porto, Rozès, 20 Years Old
A nice wide variety of cheeses. Sadly by this point I was too tired to keep track of everything we were served. We did request softer cheeses and were only given one hard cheese to start us off. From there it got softer and stronger. It is amazing what a couple high end cheese carts can do for one's appreciation of this stuff.


Chef's Menu: White Chocolate Mousse - Candied Cashews, Orange Supremes, Watermelon Gelee
Domaine du Mas Blanc, Banyuls Blanc, Languedoc, France, 2005
For some reason I did not expect too much from this dessert and I was surprisingly impressed at how good it was. I really enjoyed each ingredient in this dessert. The mousse formed a base of sweetness the other flavors could each leave their impressions on.


Ocean Menu: Summer Peach Carpaccio - Lemon Verbena Granite, Raspberry Chili Sorbet
Domaine du Mas Blanc, Banyuls Blanc, Languedoc, France, 2005
Recently I have been preferring fruit desserts but this time the chocolate wins. The peaches tasted a bit raw but I really love granite and this was no different. I have had spicy tart sorbets before but I found this one too balanced towards the fruit.


Petit Fours - Dark Chocolate Truffle, Rhubarb Gelee, White Chocolate Cake, Praline Bitter, and Marshmallow Vanilla Puff.
Oddly I don't remember these at all but I am sure they were good


Early in the meal Executive Chef Theo Schoenegger came out to speak with patrons. He and the sommelier Eric Espuny posed for photos with me and my friend. I must say Eric seemed to take particularly good care of us and is a most gregarious and engaging host. I truly enjoyed my time in his care and actually found it very easy talking to him.


Since we had relatively late reservations, the restaurant was mostly empty by the time we got there. The people that were there seemed to be older and very well off. This is probably the most out of place I have felt. There was one young lady dining with her parents and the family reeked of old money. Perhaps they caught me and my friends staring or carrying on about them but as they left the father gave me a dirty look much to the amusement of my group.

This is not the first Patina Group restaurant I have been to, and based on the results, nor will it be the last. The first was a Christmas party at Catal's long ago when I was still in college and a lowly intern at a tech startup. The next will likely be Leatherby's Cafe Rouge which caught my eye a while back and has been on my list ever since. Home